Unfortunately, any horse has the potential to become a corner cutter. It is one of those niggling issues, that if it is not straightened out correctly once and for all with correct training, will plague almost all activities you choose to do with your horse.
If you are not on the ball when approaching your corners your horse will soon learn to shave a bit off here and shave a bit off there until you will find that you are not doing your corners at all, this will cause your horse to not only drop his inside shoulder, he will start to speed up and lose all cadence along the long side of the rail, gaining a bit more speed at every corner cut.
If your horse is long and ‘strung out’, he will not be able to ride deep into the corner, which may in turn make your circles and corners look similar! This is where he will drop into the center more with his inside shoulder and gain momentum. You need to ensure you have your horse responsive to your cues with your legs to be able to ask for slightly more drive and more collection when approaching the corner, you want to be able to have your horse know your inside leg so that you can keep him where you want him and drive him up through the corner at the same time. Have the confidence that he won’t push through your inside leg and drop in…
If you are having problems with this or any other issue Remote Horse & RiderTraining can help. Contact me via email if you would like to know more.
Or, you can Purchase my book From Go To Whoa, training your own horse.
Do you have a tail chewer in your paddocks? Here are two potions for putting a halt to the tail chewer’s habit.
What if the tail problem in your pasture isn’t a matter of rubbing—but is instead caused by a horse that chews tails? (And it’s pretty easy to tell who the culprit is—he’s the one with the long, lovely tail.)
When do horse training methods cross the line from accepted to abusive?
I came across this article, I want to share it with you. It may be hard for some of you to read but I really believe it is worth sharing.
Breaking. It’s what our industry calls training a horse to be ridden, driven, or led with a halter, to accept tack and direction beneath or within it. But some trainers and riders have taken the word quite literally: breaking a horse of undesired habits, breaking his will to resist the confines and pressures of saddle and bridle … even breaking his spirit to flee perceived danger.
You might think a counter canter is simply “loping on the wrong lead,” but that’s not correct. A horse on the incorrect lead isn’t necessarily collected, doesn’t engage his hindquarters, and pulls himself along his path of travel. A horse working on the counter canter keeps his hocks underneath himself, holds his shoulders up and square, and travels rhythmically, just as he would if he were loping on the proper lead for the arc he’s traveling.
There is, for both you and your horse, proper body position when counter cantering. A counter canter is not simply being on the wrong lead going in the wrong direction. You will gain greater body control, achieve more roundness in your horse’s body and improve collection. Done correctly comes at a cost…be prepared to use your body position and your legs to get your horse to lope lifted and rounded whilst loping on the counter canter – you won’t be there just for the ride, you will need to work .
This exercise is excellent for teaching or reminding your horse just exactly who is in charge in your relationship. It’s great for teaching your horse to come to you and to respect you and is an invaluable lesson for those horse’s that won’t let you catch them when they are out in their paddock. Remember though, for a horse that is not easy to catch, it takes a long time of this repetitive training to get him to come around. Even if your horse is super easy to catch I still like to teach them this particular lesson in the round yard because it is fantastic for gaining their respect and showing them who is in charge.
Training and spending time with your horse in a round yard is like a think tank for your horse. The round yard seems to sharpen up your horses focus on you, it gives you lots of opportunities to stop, stand and wait it out knowing you and your horse are in a more confined, safer area. Using a round yard encourages your horse to listen to you more.
I am a true believer that a horse is not intentionally out to get us. I do not believe they are in their stable conjuring up how they will get us back at our next ride. It could be that your horse is in some sort of pain, maybe it’s related to diet, I am also a true believer of diet and the effects it has on inflammation not only in us humans but our animals as well. If only they could talk sometimes. Below may give you a heads up on starch and sugar and also some tips on what you can do if your horse just says NO!
When Behaviour May Be Related to Digestive Health
We all know how it feels to have to perform work when we aren’t feeling our best. Whether it’s from pain, illness, hunger, or other deficiencies we just aren’t capable of our very best – and may even get grumpy about it. Why would our horses be any different?
Starch in Concentrates May Cause Sugar Highs and Lows
Performance horses have higher energy requirements which often lead us to add a grain or other starchy concentrated feeds to their diet. Concentrate meals move through the fore-gut in a matter of hours, where starches and other simpler carbohydrates are broken down in the stomach and small intestine, and absorbed through the wall of the small intestine.
The influx of concentrates into the system in a short amount of time can cause a “sugar high”, followed by the subsequent crash, exactly like when it happens to us. The body produces insulin in response to the influx of sugar, and this insulin then creates the crash. These sugar highs and lows can have a negative impact on a horse’s attitude. Sugar imbalances may cause horses to be high-strung and unpredictable or lazy and lethargic, both of which can be expressed through resistant behaviours.
Feeding Concentrate Meals Hard on the Hindgut
In most stables, concentrates are fed twice a day. Often, this is too large a volume of grain feed for the horse to digest and absorb properly in the fore-gut. That means undigested sugars and starches can reach the hind-gut, where they are fermented by the bacteria there to produce high levels of lactic acid. This can lead to hind-gut acidosis, and a whole array of potential hind-gut health problems, that can leave a horse off its game, to say the least.
Digestive Discomfort Displayed in Resistant Behaviours
Low-grade digestive issues may be much more common in horses than you think. Some horses may be stoic when faced with pain, and others may be in the early stages of digestive distress. As a result, these horses may display their discomfort in their behaviour rather than through the typical clinical, physical symptoms.
A Healthy Horse is a Happy Horse
If you could keep your horse turned out to graze on quality pasture, and you had the ability to rotate pasture from time to time, there would be few demands on the horse’s digestive system. Your horse would most likely get all the nutrition and care it needs. But in the performance world, this is not practical.
A horse whose digestive tract is healthy and functioning properly won’t be in pain (at least not in the gut) and will also be more capable of receiving nutrition and energy properly from his food. Address digestive health and management of possible causes of resistant behaviours, and you may see improvements in your horse’s willingness to perform under saddle.
Or, if you and your veterinarian evaluate your horse’s digestive system and find it healthy, you’ve checked one potential cause off the list and can pursue other reasons for resistance.
In summary, don’t always assume that your horse is just being a stubborn old bugger that is testing you, I truly believe that a horse 99.9% of the time only goes to the trouble is disobeying us because there is something not right health or fitness wise. I observed many clients horses I had in training go from downright “pigs” (so I initially thought) to awesome show horses simply by finding and fixing their health issue, many of them being dentistry related even though the owner had not long had their teeth “done”! Many also gut related, ulcers for example, some, you have to go deeper with and get x-rays done on their feet and joints to help find the problem. There are also many memories of horses I had that had such terrible feet issues.
There usually is a legit reason why they give us a hard time when riding them. Mostly very fixable. The other .1%? Can be man made by perhaps choosing the wrong trainer and they do exist! Or, even the owners, riders that may be allowing their horse to “rule the roost”. Horses pick up bad habits just as easily as good ones, it just takes a matter of a few times him stopping for whatever reason in his head, they stand there, we pat them, tell them he’s/she’s a good boy/girl and not to worry or be frightened. Next thing we know, they begin to play us.
I have had horses come to me, I have had young horses try me out by baulking, even backing without any cues from me to do so. I have had horses of all ages think they’ve had enough for the day and point blank refuse to go forward, even attempted a little lift off the ground threatening to rear if I continued to try and ask for forward.
Some things you can try to unlock your horse
The best way I have found to unlock this baulking habit when they stop and refuse to go forward is to turn their head around to either side, it doesn’t matter which side you choose, just get their head around and with your opposite leg push them over to the direction you have them facing, this gets them off balance and forces them to take a step in that direction, once you get that first step, keep going, if they try to stay grounded, again, pull them around in the opposite direction and repeat, this should get them moving. The wrong thing you could do is just sit there kicking them to move forward, especially once they realise they are in charge. Get them off their line of tracking and change direction, not slightly, but definitely!
If you do have one that wants to leave the ground with his front end, before it turns into an out of control rearing session on you every time he feels like it and if you are brave enough, wait until he lifts his front end and while he’s up there, you need to bump him fairly hard with your legs (don’t use your spurs), if you have spurs on, turn your toes in toward your horse to ensure the sides of your heels are going to land on him, not your spurs or you may find yourself on the ground quick smart. Repeat this thump on his sides two or three times quickly. This move is something most horses don’t expect while they are rearing up on you, it can startle them and it does put them back in line. If you feel you’re not ready for this, have someone like a professional breaker do it for you to get them out of it.
An Old Timer tip
When I was a young teenager, I had a chestnut mare that reared up all the time on me. I was with a group of friends riding our horses down the beach, my mare did a few of her virticle rears, this old guy came sauntering up to me and said “Get a plastic bag, fill it with warm (body temperature) water, leave the top open and just hold it shut, when she goes up on you, you break that plastic bag on the top of her head and smack the top of her head with the flat of your hand enough to make her think you have whopped her one, between her ears, when you open your hand the water will come out everywhere, I guarantee you, she won’t rear again”! After I laughed for a bit, I asked him what he was on about, he told me that she would think that it was blood running down her head and that if I put some effort into the open handed whop she wouldn’t rear again, thinking that I had cracked her skul open and made her bleed. Tell you what, it worked! She stopped rearing.
If you have any questions on this article or just want to leave me a comment you are more than welcome!
Until next time…
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Last time, I spoke about the usefulness of draw reins and the problems that can occur when you overuse them. I love to use them, as I mentioned in my blog “Draw Reins part one” when I am going to train the lope transition.
I like to get the draw reins on and use them to help your horse to gain collection. That’s one of their uses, I also put them on if I’m going to teach the transition into a lope.
When used properly, they are a good training aid. Used improperly, they can cause problems.
It’s not wise to over-use draw reins or to use them just to get a horses head down. People sometimes use draw reins for that very reason and they forget about the rest of the horses body and collection. All this does is put the horse on the forehand. You really need to think Self-carriage. When a horse has “self-carriage,” the horse literally carries his weight (including the rider’s weight) balanced over his haunches. Because he’s balanced on the hindquarters, he has a light forehand and a soft poll. He carries his weight without leaning on the rider.